Termite Control Process for Beginners

Mud tubesUnlike ants, termites do not roam around on the soil surface or outside in the open. They will either tunnel through the soil or into timber (or other material) or else traveling inside pencil-size (or larger)"mud tubes" they build from soil, wood contaminants and other substances. You will find these tubes on foundation walls, floor joists or different areas of the home.

Split open the tubes to determine if termites continue to be active. An empty tube doesn't necessarily mean that termites are gone; they may have simply abandoned this particular tunnel. Termites often rebuild damaged tubes, which can be another indication of current activity. 'Old' tubes are sterile and crumble easily, leaving behind"etching" on the surface that could be visible for years (an indication that a home had termite activity at any time).

Tubes which are found on ceilings or on upper levels of a building may indicate that you have an aboveground ("airborne") infestation, i.e., the termite colony really resides in the building and the termites are traveling from the ground. Mud tubes constructed through an aboveground colony usually contain materials other than soil, e.g., wood and sheet rock or whatever the termites are feeding on.

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In such situations, a comprehensive inspection may require removal of siding or interior wallboards, etc.. More importantly for you, these aboveground infestations cannot be controlled with the usual soil treatment (see below) and therefore are generally deducted by a termite contract warranty. In these situations, finding and correcting the moisture problem is the first step to eliminating the termites. .

We tend to think of termites as feeding/injuring timber only. Termites really feed on almost anything that contains cellulose, the main component of wood, including wood paneling, paper products, cardboard boxes, art canvases, the newspaper covering of sheet rock, carpeting, etc.. While foraging and feeding, they could tunnel through non-cellulosic substances, such as plastic and foamboard.

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In fact, the amount of harm that termites cause depends on many factors. In areas with cold winter temperatures, termite activity (and feeding) often declines, but does not necessarily cease. When the termites are well-protected from colder temperatures (e.g., underneath a slab), then activity may continue year-round. From a practical standpoint, severe termite damage usually takes about 3-8 decades. .

There's absolutely no accurate way of determining the age of recently discovered harm. You need some reference point, i.e., some point in time when it was known that there was no damage to this specific wood. This is one reason why annual inspections (and keeping your records of those inspections) are important. .

NOTE: These inspections are not a guarantee that you do not have termites or damage in areas which are not covered or not readily seen, such as inside walls. On the other hand, the inspections can reveal conditions that might imply that harm does exist and additional investigation is needed.

In case you have a termite protection contract, contact the pest control company quickly and arrange for them to check out the problem. Should you not have a termite contract, telephone 2-3 (or more) companies and have each one inspect go to the website your house and provide you with the details of their findings and any recommendations for a click for source plan of action to fix any termite conditions they found.

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Termites do not cause significant damage in a short period of time, so spending a few extra days or even a few weeks will not make any actual difference in terms how much damage happens. .

Can there be harm that should be repaired or at least examined by a contractor or engineer before control measures are performed

Simply spraying swarmers or the surface of accessible infested wood can kill the termites which you see now, but it does not block the infestation nor does it protect your house from potential attacks by termites. The most common type of termite treatment involves a"trench and cure" in which a liquid insecticide ("termiticide") is applied to the soil surrounding crucial areas of your house.

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The soil is trenched 6" deep and approximately 4-6" wide. For houses click site with crawlspaces, the soil along the interior foundation wall has to be treated at least within 4 feet of identified signs of termite activity. In some circumstances, the soil around supports (such as piers) underneath the house can also be treated.

When implemented correctly, this treatment forms a continuous chemical barrier that should prevent termites from reaching the foundation and piers in your house. .

Concrete slabs which attach to the home, for example, a garage floor, or the slab of an earth-filled porch.